Stage 13 Dufton to Garrigill

Today we had time pressure. Just under 16 mile in 9.5 hours with our largest climb yet. The taxi was due to pick us up at 6pm from the end of the walk but breakfast in the digs didn’t even start until 8am. The landlady sped us through breakfast and took us back to Dufton and the start of the walk. The books say this may be the hardest day, but the book also finishes past we’re we did. From the start it’s an uphill climb but gentle. Alas gentle it doesn’t stay, but never too bad and never steep for long. The book describes this as 3 peaks. Getting to Knock Old Man is definitely the hardest, here I stripped off my now wet t-shirt and replaced it with a long sleeve jumper, the main climb complete and the wind of high hills blowing. The book says it’s a great view, but spot on time the mist rolled in. Next comes the Great Dun Fell, this has a radome on top, so it feels far from remote. This moor has the worst weather in England with a mean temperature of 4C and 200 days of mist. Its top was clear for us but the valleys were hidden in clouds, so no view. As we came down a new peak towered ahead which looked nice and easy, of course the reason it looked easy was because Little Dun Fell isn’t classed as a peak, just a blip. Finally we mount Cross Fell. At 893m this is the high point of the Pennine way. Still no view but a shelter with a seat, oh the simple delights you get when walking. So far today has been good. Then the gradual descent, this is all on stony uneven foot turning track, after 6 miles you’re fed up of the constant crunch crunch of your feet, which are by now screaming at you to give them a rest. This is the first time we have got down on this walk, we ended up stopping and eating an Alpen bar to raise our spirits. Finally it ends and we reach Garrigill, early enough to buy a pint. The pub is closed! The taxi arrived 5 mins after we did, it was half an hour early. A well earned day off tomorrow.

Bongate House B&B a nice place, lovely big bed and room. More your typical B&B feels, a very personal home, not just beige. The lady was very helpful, taking us to and from the walk, doing our washing and fixing early breakfast. She was in mourning, poor woman, for her recently departed husband and their dreams of the future. I liked this place even though it didn’t do evening meals and we had to walk/ hobble into town for a takeaway.